I spent five days in London, where grapes are called Sultanas, French fries are called chips, and arugula is rocket. This time it was just me and my gal pals, no Lon. Still, the only way I know how to travel is to migrate through food and let all other sight-seeing be incidental. The hard part is getting from one place to the other. It’s a busy city with lots of traffic. If you can catch a cab, which can be really difficult at times, they’re very expensive. The windy roads mean that you’ll hardly ever drive in a straight line, adding more mileage and costs. Parts of the tube (subway) shut down randomly and on weekends, and the whole thing closes around midnight. In hindsight, we should have learned the bus system earlier on.
My second beef is that London is sensitive about photography. Many stores, restaurants, and places don’t allow photos, which is not blogger or tourist friendly. Sigh….I did my best. Let’s get on with the food in order of how I experienced it.
Pub Breakfast
We arrived on a Thursday morning, exhausted and hungry. For convenience, we chose an inexpensive breakfast/brunch at a random local pub. It seems like most pubs here were open and serving breakfast. Simple egg sandwiches or bangers (sausages) with eggs, beans, and toast seem to be your choices but looking back, I enjoyed the experience. After all, what pub opens for breakfast over here? And, it was only 2 pounds (equivalent of less than $4).
St. John
We made dinner reservations a few weeks back for St. John, listed as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world (brought to my attention by Sheng). While I appreciate the unique focus on offal and lesser used animal parts, none of us felt that the quality really merited top 50 in the world. The signature dish of marrow and parsley was less rich and luscious than many I’ve had in New York. It didn’t amount to anything memorable.
There was lots to learn from the menu though. Girolles is what they call chanterelles but the overly buttery dish hardly seemed enough to call an entree. This was the first, we learned of Welsh Rarebit, a savoury sauce of melted cheese on toast. This one was salty and heavy on the stout so I had to refrain. The Roast Middlewhite (type of pig) was tender but forgettable and the Mallard and Turnips fell in the same boat. The quality of meats were excellent but the preparations rather boring.
We also had braised veal with fennel and butterbeans, hearty and rustic. We chose some steamed broccoli tossed in vinaigrette for some green balance. The large sardines were very fresh and simply grilled. None stood out except for two in the savory category. The duck hearts had a perfect bounce to them, lightened by fresh pea puree.
Then there was tender slices of grilled ox heart served with beetroot leaves and horseradish. Here was something different that wowed. There was intrigue and flavor together.
Surprisingly, the real winners at this restaurant are desserts. I’m not even sure which everyone favored since every one had fans fawning and scooping. I was sad to only have one bite of the moist Apple and Calvados cake, fearing that the liquor was still strong enough in the baked cake. It had the right balance of spices for fragrance and the perfect dose of nuts for texture. Good thing there was 3 scoops of the Hazelnut Praline Ice Cream because it could have cause some fighting. Perhaps one of the best darn ice creams I have ever eaten, it was creamy with just the right amount of sweetness from the swirls of praline that crunched and crumbled gently.
It’s amazing how good some simply honey roasted figs with toasted brioche can be. It helps that these are better figs than what I see in NY usually. We finished with cappuccinos and teas and the price was decent.
Afternoon Tea at The Ritz
Afternoon Tea at The Ritz was one of the highlights of the trip. I don’t think it has the same effect on men as it does women, but for a group of girls, it’s the adult tea party you were pretending to attend all though childhood. The teapots, teacups and saucers, and the entire setting is beautiful and regal, gold and shiny. The waiters are in proper uniform. There’s nothing that matches in New York.
You can choose from a nice array of teas and change to different ones during. Perhaps one to match with finger sandwiches and another to match with sweets. Warm scones are brought out a little later to be eaten with clotted cream and preserves. The food is abundant and very good but not amazing. It doesn’t effect the whole package though. It is pricey at 39 pounds (roughly $66) but worth the experience.
Paramount
Paramount is a restaurant and lounge located at the top of Centre Point, with wrap around views of the city. They don’t allow photos which is a shame since they plate some beautiful dishes. Everything was fresh and cooked nicely. I really enjoyed my medium rare hanger steak with goose fat fried potatoes. See, I can’t remember all the other dishes now without photos…
Royal China
Royal China is known for dim sum in London. They use an ordering system instead of the carts which is already points off for me. Though its an enjoyable meal, it doesn’t come close to the variety and quality you can get in Flushing, NY. There was one unique offering I’ve never had, deer meat pastry, but it’s not enough to entice a re-visit. The prices are roughly the same to NY before taking into account exchange rate.
Portobello Market
Portobello Market is a busy street market in Notting Hill. The main street, Portobello Road is lined with old antique shops as well as modern yogurt and cupcake shops. Then there’s street stands that sell produce, cheese, olives, crepes, bakery items, clothing, and more. We tried grapes, cherry tomatoes, plums, pluots, strawberries and the fruit is amazing here!! I highly recommend the freshly fried churros with chocolate dipping sauce too. It’s super busy, especially where the notable spots from the movie “Notting Hill” were taken, like the Travel Bookshop.
Harrod’s
The food hall on the first floor of Harrod’s is quite a sight to see. There is a room for chocolate, a room for teas, a room for candy (yes, separate from chocolate), a room for pantry items, a room for baked goods, and a room for meats and seafood. I’m probably forgetting some areas and there’s some little restaurant counters scattered through: a sushi bar, an oyster bar, a seafood grill, a gelato cafe, etc. The displays are magnificent and enticing. Unfortunately, they don’t allow photos in most areas. (This one is taken outside and looks fake doesn’t it? It’s real with a pink stretch jeep in the back. I swear.)
We bought a few bites to try like a pork and apple pie. We were told that some pies are meant to be eaten warm and some cold. We opted for a cold pie because they don’t heat them at that counter. Ironically, it tasted like it needed to be heated to us. The straight-out-of-the-fridge taste was not appealing, cold and clumpy inside with a dry and hard crust. The mixed berry brioche bun was much better. (Forgot to snap a picture of it. )
Roast
We went to Roast for Sunday Roast, a tradition of heavy meat eating on a Sunday in London. It’s a modern and bright restaurant that overlooks Borough Market, which is closed on Sunday!! (This is my biggest regret on this trip, not getting to see Borough Market in action.) The food was heavy but showed refinement. They have a nice 2 course with plenty of choice for 29 pounds and it’s a generous amount of food with some live jazz.
I really enjoyed the buffalo mozzarella with damsons and fresh pea shoots. Simple and fresh.
They serve an interesting little pot of salted beef, seemingly cured and shredded, then sauced. It was accompanied by pickles and bread. I wonder if this is a common dish in London or unique to Roast…
Another appetizer was pork patties lightened with a slaw, while two chose tomato soups that had great flavor but didn’t come out hot enough.
For mains, two of us got roasted pork belly and it was humongous! The meat was tender and juicy but the best part was definitely the the thick and crunchy skin. It’s on top of a little bit of apple sauce that adds a touch of sweetness.
Two got sirloin which was cooked so nicely, also served in a generous two slices. The fresh and sharp mustard and horseradish give a great zing. The puffy popover is a nice touch.
I didn’t try the haddock casserole because of mercury but I don’t like fish with cheese anyway. We all shared sides of very fried potatoes and buttery cabbage with carrots. Food in London is really pretty heavy and this was no exception. No one could even fathom dessert at this point so we decided to walk on and explore.
Vinopolis
Vinopolis is marketed as a wine tour/exhibit with tasting so you can buy a ticket as a drinker/taster and as a non-drinker. One of the girls didn’t feel like drinking early afternoon and she and I thought we would just enjoy the tour, information, and knowledge. Nope, it’s really not much inside but tastings so the 12 pounds is a rip-off. That’s nearly $20 just to sit around and have access to a bathroom. Four girls went around doing tastings (for about 30 pounds) and none were all too impressed either. Skip this while in London because drinking wine at restaurants and buying bottles at wine shops is pretty cheap.
Lahore
After an afternoon at Tate Modern, a free museum, I was determined to eat Indian food. It was my last dinner in London. We picked a place listed in Time Out London and hopped a cab, but met the most charming cab driver who favored Lahore for 30 years and so we decided to go with his choice. The prices are nice and cheap and the food is good. They are weak on the naan, which isn’t puffy enough and gets drier as it cools.
We enjoyed the rest, Vegetable Curry, Chicken Tikka Masala, Seekh Kabobs, and finishing with Kulfi pops. It’s spicier and lighter than what we’re used to in NY, using less cream and oil. Ironically, I consider Indian food very heavy in NY, but here it’s a lighter version which feels even lighter relative to how heavy food generally is in London.
I finished with a mango lassi which was thickly yogurty and fresh and fruity. Mmm….
Dayles Ford
Food Shops, a concept where they sell some produce and grocery items, yet also sell prepared foods in tandem with a full seated restaurant, is growing in London. Dayles Ford, one focused on farm ingredients was a favorite spot of ours. The first time we stopped in, we bought bread, preserves, mustard, desserts, and fresh organic juices and yogurt drinks. We loved everything so much that we went back for our last breakfast in London.
I had the freshest and brightest BLT. Others had farm fresh eggs on toast or cured salmon with baked eggs. Everything tasted so simple and fresh, just as nature intended it. The cappuccinos were great too.
London
Overall, I didn’t love London. I really enjoyed time with my girls but it wasn’t because of where we were. Ingredient quality seems fantastic but preparations lean towards heavy and very one dimensional. It gets hard to eat that way for several days in a row. Gratuity gets confusing because generally it’s not a tipping culture but some restaurants add on service charges on their own. With the exchange rate (around 1.6 now), things get really expensive.
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To me of the more confusing name differences was calling Sprite (or other lemon/lime soda) Lemonade. That was a situation where the other name has another meaning here in the US. I remember first hearing about Welsh Rarebit in the early days of Food Network on Two Hot Tamales. I think it was the same episode where they did Scotch Eggs. yum!
That’s a shame you didn’t love London. Zuma was probably my favorite there a few years ago. The Botanist was also delightful. There’s also a fashionable cafe at the top of Harvey Nichols. But yea… I could spend an entire afternoon at Harrod’s. I’m going back for a few days around Halloween– my to-do is Hakkasan.
I studied abroad in London back in college. It was so wonderful to be so close to neighboring European countries. Did you visit Chinatown? It must’ve expanded a lot since I was there. Did you catch any shows?
Hope you’re doing well with your pregnancy. 🙂
I tried to book afternoon tea at the Ritz but couldn’t get a spot! Also, since we only had 2 full days in London, the only time I had was the morning before our flight. I ended up booking a spot at a place that started its tea service at 12:30pm (Athenaeum Hotel). It was nice enough, but of course, The Ritz is The Ritz! =D
We also tried St John! Actually, it was my first time eating at a Michelin-starred place. It was “good”, but nothing wow. The plates really are too simple; a bit boring. But “nice” enough.
The best meal was our Sunday Roast meal at The Pantechnicon. Ordered the beef, which came with duck fat potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. Coming from lamb-intensive Turkey where even their beef had a hint of lamb, it seemed, that piece of beef at The Pantechnicon was ultra-delicious.
Harrod’s was “all right”, but it was such a total zoo (too many people scurrying about) that I just wanted to get out of there! On the other side, with all the people/tourists there, nobody from the store seemed to mind the picture-taking.
We were only there for 2 days, so it definitely wasn’t enough!
But, I know what you mean about the food being expensive. Craziness. Also, the “British” food tended to be a little heavy, so we actually ate Southeast Asian for a couple of meals or so. =)
Kim, we passed through Chinatown on the tour bus but didn’t walk through. Didn’t get to catch any shows though we wanted to.
TS, we were surprised to get reservations at the Ritz (thanks to Angie for that). I love your line, “lamb-intensive Turkey where even their beef had a hint of lamb” haha. Harrod’s is a zoo but we went near closing time and towards the end it was better.
I love London, but think it’s easier to enjoy in the summer. Hopefully you’ll go back again when the sun doesn’t set until 9pm and the whole city mingles in the pubs for hours after work. The food, while much improved over the years, definitely still doesn’t compare to New York. But like the afternoon tea experience, there are some things that we just don’t have here. Guess you’ll just have to go back and visit me when I move there one day 🙂
Jessica, those puffs with the roast beef were Yorkshire Pudding! Marie has my very late mother’s recipe if you would like it. Also your first exposure to Welsh Rabbit(rarebit) didn’t look like what I was brought up with! When Marie, brought in very English Vancouver, and I first were married, I used to make Welsh Rarebit quite often. I never had it as a small layer of cheese on a large slice of bread as your picture shows! More like loads of spicy melted cheese on toast points! And your afternoon tea experience is available with bells on in Victoria British Columbia at the Fairmont Empress Hotel where afternoon tea is an every day thing. This is served in the OLD English style, complete with liveried servers! For any folks who have not been to Victoria and seen how very English it is, it is a surprising experience! Victoria has been said to be more English than London, and a small fraction of the cost!
Cheers, Old Doug in BC
Old Doug, I’ve never had yorkshire pudding but in looking it up, the difference seems to be that yorkshire pudding is made with the pan drippings (from the beef) and made in the same pan so it is flat as opposed to puffed. The popover puffs over the popover pan. This one seems more of a popover then, and is exactly like the popovers we eat here in NY. If I get to go to Victoria one day, I will definitely be headed for afternoon tea. I love it!!
I’m so, so sorry to hear that you did not enjoy your time in London, Having lived there a couple of times in different decades, I can vouch for the food having various tastes, textures, and character, so it’s too bad that you found it one-dimensional. For afternoon tea (which is, yes, expensive), Kensington Palace Gardens, Fortnams, The Goring, and Browns are also good options.
Did you make it to Books for Cooks? What about The Spice Shop? BforC used to offer a lunch when they were testing recipes. It was sort of a little-known foodie secret. The bookstore that you mentioned is, btw, not the one used in the movie Notting Hill. They created that shop out of a vacant one next to the butchers!
The Experimental Gourmand, I think I must have not written clearly. It’s not that I didn’t enjoy my time in London. I just didn’t love it enough to want to go back. If I do pass through again one day, I will be having tea again!
I only did quick peaks into Books for Cooks and The Spice Shop because we were over there on a Saturday and it was just too over-crowded. I thought the outside of the Travel Bookshop is what they used for the movie, just not the inside, which is why all the tourists are piled in front taking pictures….
London is definitely more fun when the weather is great. The scenes outside in the summer are kind of crazy. Well, it’s a great city all the time. Strange though — during my last trip, I didn’t have much trouble with photography. Maybe that’s because I was going around with a more stealthy camera.
Sounds like you didnt enjoy Vinopolis then? Would you have rather prefered wine tasting in france which in my opinion is much more authentic, sitting in a cheateux and learning about how to taste wine and where it comes from. I think that is more interesting than walking through an exhibition. Seems like you ate a lot in London I just hope you didnt eat all that was listed and photographed in 2-4 days and took your time with it!