There’s been a lot of press about Keste 271 Bleeker Street, New York, NY 10014….
Being featured in Time Out New York and New York Magazine basically means this tiny place has long lines every evening. Lon and I walked in one Thursday night and couldn’t even get anyone to tell me how long the wait would be. I got shoved around, stepped on, and then eventually left, just frustrated with not having an answer.
I debated whether I really needed to try this pizza. Lon decidedly does not wait on lines, but I lucked out when I decided to meet Carol there for lunch. There was no wait, other than waiting for a short delay in opening hours (it seems they were painting the bathroom).
Having already read about Roberto Caporuscio on Slice (Serious Eats), I recognized him when he welcomed us in with a friendly smile. This casual guy is the president of Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napolitani (APN), the association that protects and preserves the Neopolitan pizza tradition, and several accolades all over the internet tout Keste as the real deal, what pizza tastes like in Naples.
I got to snap a few pictures while he was teaching an employee. The first piece of dough he threw in the oven didn’t have anything on it, so I asked him about it, and he answered as he took the long peel and pushed the dough around the oven to clean it. He said something like, it gets out all the dust, and then he tossed it away. I was secretly screaming inside – NO, can I eat that? precious dough…who cares about a little oven dust? He continued to make pizza after pizza with ease.
Because of the extremely hot oven, pizzas are done in about a minute. Talk about efficiency! If NYC rents weren’t so ridiculous, they could probably serve more people. I wonder if I can just order it as take-out and eat outside? I just called, and yes you can. In good weather, just order and walk down Bleeker to where it meets Sixth avenue. There’s a park with benches there.
The grand question is, is the pizza as good as all the hype? Well, I really hesitate to rank it or compare it to other favorite pizza places like Numero 28, Grimaldi’s, and Fornino, because it’s too different. I don’t like comparing vanilla and chocolate. You know when you get regular pizza, there’s big bubbles sometimes, sometimes by the crust, sometimes somewhere random in the middle. If you prize those bubbles, you will like Keste, where the entire outer rim is a fabulously airy and stretchy bubble. If you avoid the bubble, avoid Keste. (BTW, I had many debates in high school about the merits of the bubble. I happen to like the bubble.)
The pure tomat-y sauce is light and fresh. The milky mozzarella is subtle but creamy. I am still the biggest fan of the classic Margherita pizza.
The buffalo mozzarella is a bit weak, especially if you have other toppings to mask it. We tried the “Keste” pizza also, with prosciutto, arugula, buffalo mozzarella, and grand cru. All of the toppings are fresh and flavorful, but Carol pointed out that this ends up tasting more like a fantastic sandwich, not like pizza. I agree.
The pizzas are not cheap, the margherita $12 and the Keste $18, but they are filling. We had a little left-over so I brought it home for Lon. Even reheated, Lon thought it was excellent pizza. I thoroughly enjoyed it but I would never wait 30 to 45 minutes (normal wait time in the evenings). Luckily you don’t have to, ordering to-go is the way to go. Makes sure to eat it immediately though, like start scarfing as your walking.
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I do want to see what the hype is all about, but when I see all the charred edges, the thought of carcinogenic chemicals kind of scare me.
You might want to think about going earlier. I’ve been twice: the first time after my Neapolitan barber told me he thought it was the best pizza in town. I got there at about 6:30 on a weeknight and was seated right away. By the time I left, the line outside was already forming.
I was back there last Saturday–I think we got there at around 6 PM and had to put our name down, but waited no more than 10 minutes. So if you can manage to work up an appetite in the early evening, that’s probably your best bet.
I’ve been to UPN, Mezzaluna, and La Pizza Fresca, and I’ve never had a crust as tender and flavorful as Keste’s. The toppings are also superb. I’ve had the Keste and the del Re and can recommend them both enthusiastically.
As far as carcinogenic chemicals…well, I guess we all have our fears. The chemicals and antibiotics that our water and milk and meet and non-organic vegetables are infused with don’t leave me worried so much about a little 1-minute char; especially when the ingredients are as fresh and delicious as Keste’s.
Hey Kim, do you eat grilled foods? The charred spots are definitely there on these pizzas so I can understand it being a turn-off, but it is good stuff.
Karen, wow, you are a fan! =) A chef I met who was visiting from Italy also told me he thought Keste was amazing so it definitely gets the stamp of approval from Italians.
Kim, the carcinogenic chemicals you’re probably thinking of are heterocyclic amines and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and are typically caused only by severe overcooking of animal proteins. Bread, veggies, etc., produce minimal if any of these chemicals, even when grilled/charred. So you can enjoy your pizza. 🙂
This looks so good, it would definitely be on my cheat-list!!
Megan, so good to know! I generally allow myself anything in moderation but with cancer running in the family, I’ve definitely had some worries in the back of my head.
Any plans to visit NY anytime soon? I could help fill up your cheat-list!