I don’t have a very compelling argument for making bagels at home. If you live in New York, amazing bagels are cheap and available. Making a good bagel at home requires buying two ingredients you probably don’t have, malt (malt syrup is available at Whole Foods and malt powder is available at King Arthur) and unbleached high gluten flour (available at King Arthur Flour). If you think you’re going to do most of the kneading in your Kitchen-aid. Wrong. That’s what I thought until the engine of my Professional Series 6 Quart started smoking, and then it took me about 20 minutes of heavy kneading. First I was cursing, then praying, then wishing I was stronger. Taller would have helped with more leverage over the strong dough. (Actually, it feels like some hunky biceps by the time it’s done.)
Depending on where you live, you might not be able to get a decent bagel though. Not convinced huh? Well, how about some classic Jewish mom guilt. Yom Kippur is just around the corner and since I enjoy the breaking of the fast, but don’t fast, I could tortuously make the bagels for everyone instead. It is easier than fasting.
If you do venture to make these bagels, this recipe, adapted from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, by Peter Reinhart, is really an excellent version, particularly the chewy dough beneath the tight skin. Lon thought the dough could have more flavor so for some maybe a tad more malt and a tad more salt, but if you’re going to add butter, cream cheese, lox, or whatever, you won’t notice. I’m a native New Yorker, which means I am literally made of bagels. I grew up in a Jewish neighborhood too (Forest Hills, Queens) which also explains why I always dated Jewish guys and am now married to one, but that’s a different story. (BTW, I’m Chinese.)
The good news is that most of the work is done a day or two in advance so you could make it, leave it in the fridge, and just boil and bake the day you want it. Nothing beats that fresh bagel right out of the oven.
Bagels
~12 bagels
Sponge
- 4 cups unbleached high gluten flour (like Sir Lancelot Flour at King Arthur)
- 1 teaspoon instant yeast
- 2 1/2 cups water, at room temperature
Dough
- 1/2 teaspoon instant yeast
- 3 3/4 cups unbleached high gluten flour
- 2 3/4 teaspoons salt
- 2 teaspoons malt powder or 1 tablespoon malt syrup
Finish
- 2 tablespoons baking soda
- cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting
- any toppings: sesame seeds, poppy seeds, kosher salt, etc.
Instructions –
1. Make the sponge by putting the flour in a large mixing bowl. Stir in yeast. Add water and stir until it’s a smooth and sticky batter. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest in room temperature for about 2 hours, or until double in size.
2. To make the dough, stir in the additional yeast. Add 3 cups of the flour, salt, and malt. Stir until the ingredients form a ball. Slowly work in the remaining 3/4 cup flour. (Just forget about doing this in the stand-mixer unless you have an industrial one. I made a mess and nearly broke the engine.)
3. Start kneading dough on the counter (it shouldn’t stick) and get ready for a fight. The dough is stiff but still pliable and should be smooth. If it’s sticky, add some more flour. If it’s too dry, add a few drops of water. Continue kneading until it passes the windowpane test and is between 77 and 81 degrees F. It took me a little over 20 minutes to finish. Divide the dough into 4.5 oz pieces and roll them into balls.
4. Cover the balls with a damp towel and rest for 20 minutes.
5. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and spray with a little oil. Poke a hole in the center of each dough ball and stretch the hole out to about 2.5″ diameter. Try to keep all parts of the dough even.
6. Lay the bagels on the prepared baking sheets and mist lightly with oil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
7. Check if the bagels pass the “float test” (by just testing one bagel). The float test refers to the bagels floating within 10 seconds of being dropped in cool or room temperature water. If it passes the float test, pat dry and return to the pan. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight (up to two days). If the bagel does not float, let it continue to proof (rest on counter) and check again in 10 to 20 minutes.
8. When you are ready to bake bagels, preheat the oven to 500 degrees F with two racks set up in the middle of the oven. Bring two large pots of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of baking soda to each pot. Have a spider ready.
9. Take the bagels out of the refrigerator, and drop three into each pot of boiling water. Boil for 1 minute and flip it over to boil for another minute. While bagels boil, sprinkle the parchment paper (the same one bagels were on in the fridge) with cornmeal or semolina flour. When bagels are done boiling, place them back on baking sheets and sprinkle with whichever toppings you like. (We did 3 black sesame, 3 sesame, 3 poppy seed, 2 kosher salt, 1 rosemary and kosher salt.) Repeat this process with the remaining 6 bagels. Boiling can be increased to two minutes per side if you want chewier bagels.
10. Place the bagels in the middle of the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Rotate the pans 180 degrees and switch shelves. Lower the temperature to 450 degrees F and bake for another 5 minutes, or until light golden brown.
11. Remove bagels to a rack to cool for 15 minutes before serving.
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Wow, you guys are really going basic here. Next I’m expecting you to make your own sugar 🙂
This is sooo cool. I’ve never heard of anyone making their own bagels.
It’s hard to get good bagels down here!
This looks great. Once more into the bagel breach! Cover me (with seeds?) I’m goin’ in! I’ll let you know how they turn out.
umm. wow. i’m impressed. I’d do it but I’m fasting(fasters also get to pick what mom makes for dinner the night before)!!!!
d
Wow, like the step-by-step pictures…nice looking bagels…yummie!
Thank you for the step-by-step directions & pictures! My daughter was just curious about how bagels are made and this post was perfect to share with her!
Blond Duck, you’ll have to make your won then!
Marcos, I think we’ve talked about high gluten flour. It is essential here for a real bagel texture.
Meyerboy, good luck!
I respect that you guys did this.
Yours look so good! I tried bagels and they were kind of a disaster. Didn’t have the heart to toss them so they taunt me from my freezer… : )
MMMMMMM,….your bagels look divine, don’t they?
Jessica, your bagels look so light in texture, & I love them with smoked salmon & cream cheese, I would love to have a go at making them but 20 minutes kneading would leave my wrists hanging off my arms like two limp biscuits lol…I don’t have the strength unfortunately…but wait I know a man who does!
These look great! People around here rave about Einstein and Panera bagels. Oh how sad that they’ve never had a “real” bagel. I settle with Wegman’s, but a salt bagel is more salt than bagel. Ugh When I worked in New York I used to pick up a dozen from Zaros on my way home and 13 bagels never made it. I always got to my stop with 12.
I think I’m going ot have to limber up and try my hand at bagel-making. I suppose I’ll have to cure my own salmon as well so I can have lox that’s palatable also. 🙂
Bill, you guys? Lon was not here to help when my Kitchenaid was smoking and my arms were falling off.
Jada, I know the feeling but just toss them, otherwise you won’t have room for good stuff. Well at least my freezer is not that big. Try again…breads are difficult and take practice but I think this recipe will give you good results.
Lesley, I’m putting Lon to work next time.
Fran, there is nothing like a real NY bagel! We have a great recipe for lox too. You can make yourself a great NY meal!
Jess, Success! I did use the King Arthur flour, bit the bullet and bought (lottsa B’s there huh?) liquid malt and thus did it the official way. Bright and early this morning 12 happy bagels were born in “la casa de Marcos y Virginia”. I’ll try to remember to send pics later.
Yay Marcos! Send pics!!
Do you have a recipe for Oatbran Bagels? I used to have them at a bagel shop in Cincinnati and I really miss them. I would love to make my own because we do not have bagel shops in the area I live in.
Liz Ridener
[email protected]
Sorry Liz, I don’t have an oatbran bagel recipe, but let’s try asking your fave bagel shop how they make theirs. Do you know the name?
Wow. A great article and pictures. I Like the basic recipe and the method is fine up until the punch a whole and stretch’ part. I prefer to hand-roll a log, join tapered ends and roll as bit more. I know it is more work, but the resulting shape is better. And a short caution to experienced dough workers; this dough will be very still to work with. My suggestion is to force it a bit and let it rest a bit. With experience, you may want to use a tiny bit more water. While the boiling stage is essential, please regulate the temperature with care. You DO want a vigirous boil to begin, but the two or three rounds of dough should reduce that to a simmer. Resist the temptation to return it to a big boil and use the slightly bubbling simmer. I use about 90 seconds per side, but your mileage may vary. I don’t obther trying to wipe them dry and just drain them with the spider or slotted tool. Any residual moisture will help to crisp the top once the ‘dough unit’ is in the oven. Don’t over bake! If the finished color is not quite to your liking, try increasin the temperature by about 10 degrees F). On the whole, this is a great recipe and method. Any serious bagel lover with modest baking skills should be well please with this product, so give it a try.